One of the oldest Scandinavian capitals, Oslo has never been on the mainstream European tourist circuit. Many have the impression that it's lean on historic and cultural sights. In fact, Oslo offers enough sights and activities to fill at least 3 or 4 busy days. It's also the starting point for many easy excursions along the Oslofjord or to nearby towns and villages.

In the '90s Oslo grew -- from what even the Scandinavians considered a backwater -- to one of the glittering cities of Europe. Restaurants, nightclubs, cafes, and shopping complexes have opened. A Nordic joie de vivre permeates the city. The only problem is that Oslo is one of the most expensive cities in Europe. Proceed with caution if you're on a strict budget.

Oslo was founded in the mid-11th century by a Viking king, and became the capital around 1300 under Haakon V. In the course of its history, the city burned down several times; fire destroyed it in 1824. The master builder, Christian IV, king of Denmark and Norway, ordered the town rebuilt near the Akershus Castle. He named the new town Christiania (after himself), its official name until 1924, when the city reverted to its former name.

In 1814 Norway separated from Denmark and united with Sweden, a union that lasted until 1905. During that period the Royal Palace, the House of Parliament, the old university, the National Theater, and the National Gallery were built.

After World War II, Oslo grew to 282 sq. km (175 sq. miles). Today it's one of the 10 largest world capitals in the area. Oslo is also one of the most heavily forested cities, with fewer than half a million inhabitants.

One final point: Oslovians love nature. They devote much time to pursuits in the forests and on the fjords. It takes only half an hour by tram to go from the Royal Palace to the 119m (390 ft.) Tryvann Observation Tower, where you can enjoy a view over Oslo Marka, the giant forest. The Krogskogen forest was the setting for many Norwegian folk tales about princesses, kings, penniless heroes, and the inevitable forest trolls. From this observation tower in the summer, you can look down on hundreds of sailboats, motorboats, and windsurfers among the numerous islands of the Oslo archipelago.